Stepping into the cool, rushing waters of the Yampa River our guide Mike stands ashore tying flies and orienting us to the valley: “Stagecoach Reservoir has some of the best water in Colorado and is known for providing the last four state records for pike, including one that was 34 pounds.” At the tail waters, where we are, the water is fast and clean, providing great opportunities to catch big rainbow and brown trout. As you go down river, through the town of Steamboat Springs and out toward the slower, warmer waters of the Yampa there is carp, catfish, pike and small-mouth bass.
Bucking Rainbow Outfitters coordinated the evening excursion for us. As the only Orvis-endorsed fly fishing outfitters in Steamboat, Bucking Rainbow specializes in private fisheries and has access to over 40 miles of premier trout waters, and those private waters mean less people and more fish; so novices or not, we had no excuses when it came to our catch.
As first time fly fishers, we made the most of their full-service fly shop before heading up stream. We learned about sight casting and fishing dry-flies; the ins and outs of rods and reels; and a bit of Entomology 101, as they have more than 20,000 flies in stock.
“You have to come back in the fall,” says Mike, “September to November you get the best water, cooler nights mean no bugs, and there is less pressure on the river because there are fewer people. And the fall foliage is beautiful. The whole valley is lit up with red and purple. Winter fly fishing is also amazing. You start with a snowmobile ride down the river and then sight-cast for a variety of trout.” He then pointed toward the Flat Tops and told us that elk hunting is in its prime there in the fall.
We enjoyed fly fishing so much we were actually happy we couldn’t get tickets for the Steamboat Strings concert that night. The Strings offers different performances throughout the summer season, and upon suggesting we see a Mozart performance to my grandmother, she surprised us by preferring the Grammy award-winning Nitty Gritty Dirt Band. Unfortunately for us, they were sold out instantly; understandably so as the Stings Music Festival takes place at new Strings Music Pavilion, offering a larger stage and enhanced acoustics in a still casual and intimate atmosphere. So instead, when we arrived that morning we walked along the Yampa River Trail, which leads to the Botanic Park. We made it just in time for the Music on the Green noontime performance. The 45-minute concerts include tunes from string quartets to bluegrass and take place every Thursday through late August. We heard the Lyrica Quartet, and decided to attempt coming back for the Avett Brothers bluegrass and country on August 19.
On average, the Steamboat Ski Area receives 310 inches of snow annually. “This year,” says Wendy, our Destination Host, “I believe the agreed upon amount of snowfall in Steamboat was 489 inches.” That translates into an extended rafting season through late September because of all the snow melt. Knowing our trip was multi-generational Wendy suggested a scenic Yampa Safari float trip, again with Bucking Rainbow.
Raft guides rave about Steamboat as they have easy access to five different rivers — Yampa, Elk, Colorado, Eagle and Arkansas — ranging from mild to wild. While our half-day, seven-mile float was perfect for our group ranging in age from 30 to 80, the more adventurous and experienced have the option of some serious Class IV white water.
Gliding along the healthy waters banked by a bird sanctuary, our guide, Ryan, pointed out graceful red tail hawks, watchful turkey vulchers, and nesting bald eagles with their babes. “This area is home to herrings, whooping cranes, red wing songbird, finches, ospreys, owls, sparrows, beavers, river otters, minx and more.”
To keep with our daily water theme, Ryan suggested we drive to Steamboat Lake, about 40 minutes out of town, tucked within the rugged mountains that make up the 520,000-acre Routt National Forest. We also had plans to walk the paved path to Fish Creek Falls, raging because so many high mountain creeks are flourishing.
Strawberry Park Hot Springs is another noted spot to spend time in Steamboat. The natural, rustic environment lends itself to the hot mineral-rich water flowing from the mountainside into stone masonry pools along the creek. While you need either four-wheel drive or chains from November to May, during summer and fall the road is clear and even my Prius was able to make the windy climb to the entrance.
After a luxurious morning at the hot springs, we were ready to get down and dirty at the Steamboat Springs Pro Rodeo Series. While the rodeo didn’t start until after 7:00 p.m., we decided to go early and avoid crowds, and were thankful we did. Arriving at 5:00 p.m. allowed us to choose a seat in the shaded grand stand, front and center behind where the cowboys mount up and are released from their stalls. The barbecue started at 6:00 p.m. and we were one of the first in line, lucky since mass crowds and long lines began to form instantly. Every Friday and Saturday night from mid-June until the Series Championships on August 15 and 16, people come to watch the bareback and saddle bronc riding, team and tie-down roping, and steer wrestling. Our favorite events were the Calf Scramble for kids 6 to 12 and Pee Wee Ram Scramble for kids 5 and under (both hilarious), and the Pee Wee Barrel Racing — the winner of which was a five-year-old girl. It was so amazing it almost made me want to find a colt of my own and become a proper cowgirl.
On our last morning we rode the gondola to mid-mountain and had a leisurely brunch at Hazies. Steamboat Ski Area’s Mount Werner has a vertical rise of more than 3,600 feet from the base to its 10,568 summit, but luckily the altitude didn’t bother those of us coming from sea level much and the views were spectacular. Taking the gondola was so much fun, considering it goes within arms reach of both Quintess, LRW homes, Lynx and Buffalo Pass. We could see the wrap around porch where we relaxed in the hot tub the night before, the beautiful detailing of all the wood and steel accents, and the living roof. It was really special to see the homes from above, especially after reading the article Wendy left for us from HomeLink magazine, touting the recognition the property received for earning “points towards its Built Green certification in 20 of 28 possible categories, of which eight are required including energy efficiency, health and safety, material resource efficiency and resource conservation.”
To read the full article from HomeLink magazine, visit http://www.homelinkmag.com/Articles.htm.
